Isabella creates its own standard of excellence

Thursday, February 21, 2002

By Carol Roberts, Star Newspapers

I can't believe the d'Estes ancestors of Isabella dined nearly as well as patrons of the Tinley Park restaurant that bears her name.

Dining Out

Open since summer in a former house along historic Oak Park Avenue, Isabella's kitchen and serving staff did everything right, on a recent chilly night.
 
Every bite of my dinner was memorable, starting with an appetizer from the specials listing. The scallop and salmon terrine was as light as a whisper but screamed freshness. The subtle lemon sauce was the perfect accent.
 
I hope Isabella adds the terrine to its regular lineup of starters, so it will be available all the time. If not, the assortment available certainly will suffice. I was attracted by the polenta torte with spinach, red peppers and goat cheese sauce, which sounds like a colorful, flavorful starter.

Also listed are bruschetta with a choice of three toppings, Italian sausage with grapes, four-cheese pizza and grilled portabellos with lentils.

My fear that the seafood appetizer might be the highlight of my meal was wiped out with taste No. 1 of my entree, the special osso buco. Done without a deviation from tradition, the veal was wonderful, nicely accompanied by a bit of polenta that served as a sponge for the delightful sauce.
 
Even the colorful pile of peppers and squash, normally a restaurant afterthought, caught my taste buds and demanded its share of my attention.
 
Across the table, my guest was having the same eye-widening culinary experience with her bowl of rigatoni and smoked chicken. Portobello, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic and olive oil completed one of the better pasta dishes I've tasted recently.
 
Because we were on a roll of excellence, we splurged on two desserts from Isabella's tempting array. In the winter, it is difficult for me to resist summery fruits, so the Italian strawberry shortcake called to me, especially because the strawberries are splashed with balsamic vinegar. The result was a zingy tart-sweetness that soaked into the excellent biscuit.
 
Other options at Isabella are just as appealing as the ones we ordered.

I know penne porcini, where it long has been my favorite dish. Fettuccine salmon with lemon dill sauce has to be a winner, and roasted duck with dried cherry sauce is a rare restaurant creature.
 
I have tried stuffed eggplant at lunchtime at Isabella and it combines well with prosciutto and mozzarella, and I suspect this kitchen can turn out a chicken Vesuvio to die for. The pan-seared catfish on the specials menu is presented with a change-of-pace sauce, tomato and capers. I will have to go back, if only to try mango almond torte and homemade biscotti.
 
I also would like to be seated in what had been the front porch, and now is a cozy space whose art work can make patrons think they are in Italy.

Another Isabella highlight is the service. My server was professionally correct, attentive and pleasant.
 
The only fault I could find with Isabella is one I find at other new restaurants: uncomfortable chairs. My body prefers a soft, enclosing booth, although I realize this seating style does nothing for the ambiance new restaurateurs are attempting to create. Perhaps a compromise is padding on the backs of the chairs.
 
But this "nit" does nothing to diminish a visit to Isabella. From an excellent mixed drink to top-notch bread that can be teamed with any of a half dozen toppings, through the entrees, to the final bite of dessert, this is a restaurant of excellence.